Photo: “Practice Days” – Author. Real,Quezon, 2014
The general definition of surfing is an individual paddle’s into the line-up (the spot in the ocean for surfers to catch waves), wait for a wave, paddle again to catch and ride it. Simple. What comes before, during and after surfing defines my perspective. I am not a professional, I’ve only been surfing for four years intermittently. I surf to enjoy life. The following four fundamentals are Budget, Physical and Mental Preparation, Commitment and The Right Wave:
Budget
Living in Metro Manila (Philippines) has no luck in surf spots. all of the spots are located outside the metro. In order to go there fast, there is no other way but spend money.
Some say it is an expensive hobby. Think about this, some have smartphones and other gadgets that are twice the price of a surfboard. Some pay drinks at a bar or you spend time with love ones at parks or malls. Me, I get out of the city at dawn. Surf. Stay at a cheap apartment or transient with a kitchen in it. Cook then eat. Surf again. Drink a few (or more) and spend time with love ones (closest friends or family). Sleep. Repeat until the weekend ends. All of us has different ways on to budget to achieve happiness.
Others will say “It’s because you’re single. You have the freedom to spend and do whatever you want.”. Nothing will change my love for surfing even if I will have my own family. If it’s your source of happiness and freedom, you will do everything to achieve it.
Physical and Mental Preparation
Paddling-in (to go into the line-up) requires basically strength to carry a board, have enough arms, back and cardiovascular endurance to paddle. Must also require focus and awareness especially if being pounded by gallons (even tons) of raging water. Catching waves again requires your endurance, focus and awareness (especially during wipe-outs). Not to mention balance.
The first time I caught a wave was in La Union (forgot the spot, but in San Juan) with an instructor. All I have to do is to stand up when the instructor tells me to. Easy. But when the moment I tried to carry a 9’0″ wooden square tail long board down the shore and paddled-in. Knee to waist high (around 2-3 ft.) wave, mushy (slow-rolling waves), that’s when I realize, “What have I gotten myself into? Do I really want to surf?” I paddled for 5-10 minutes, my arms were dead, my back hurts and desperately gasping for air. But I committed and caught a wave for the first time. I don’t remember the type of wave I caught that day but there I was. Standing on top of the surfboard, aware that I have caught this wave on my own. That’s the moment that I said to myself after that wave. This is the one (life) that I’m looking for.
Commitment
The tolerance of pain from someone’s pockets, body to mind will determine someone’s commitment in surfing. It takes discipline, hard work and time especially for individuals who live far away from surf spots. Since these individuals have 9-5 or shifting schedule jobs and other priorities who try to squeeze in and prepare for a surf trip.
During our surf trips, we are acquainted with individuals (friend of friends) who wanted to experience our surf trips. I am confident to say that all of them enjoyed our surf trips (later on I will write a journal on how we do surf trips.). But in my point of view, a few initiated to schedule a next surf trip. Maybe they are not as committed as I am. Or they only wanted to try surfing, maybe they are really into surfing and maybe they find surfing is hard. I don’t know their reasons and whatever it is, I respect them. As long as they got to taste a bit of surfing and they felt happy, I’m grateful having them.
The Right Wave
Now, this is the fun and crucial part. By the time a surfer learned how to read waves,
Left – Breaks from left to right while looking at the beach.
Right – Breaks from right to left while looking at the beach.
Peak – Breaks both from left to right and right to left while looking at the beach.
Close-out – No break direction. A “no-go” wave.
picking the right wave depends entirely on the surfer. And what that surfer what to achieve. Not to mention every surf spots have different wave behaviors.
I call it a right wave because that’s the wave that I want based on my experience and judgement. Personally, I don’t have to catch every wave. I don’t care if I took to long to catch one, what’s important is that as long as I embrace the joy and freedom given by the wave that I caught. Whether it’s a left (my favorite) down to a white wash/white water (broken wave).
This is how I surf. This what makes me happy. I you pickup anything in this journal that can help you in you life or your journey towards surfing, I’m happy for you. Cheers!
LIVE • SURF 